Wednesday 10 August 2011

NORTHERN GERMANY

Hamburg

Hard to believe that we are back in Germany after travelling so many kilometres (now approaching 14,000).  We left The Netherlands and had a big day's drive to Hamburg in the north of the country.  The countryside was quite different to southern Germany - no quaint villages with church spires, and the rolling hills and fields weren't the same lush green.  This area of Germany was more sprawling hills of broadacre farming.

Hamburg, Germany's leading port city, was alive with development.  Our most exciting stop was at Miniatur Wunderland - an incredibly extensive minature world.  It is built around 12 km of model train tracks and the different sections represent many locations around the world.  There are over 890 model trains, 14,000 carriages, 200,000 tiny people and 215,000 trees in the display.




We were all overwhelmed by the intricate attention to detail - traffic lights and vehicle indicator lights worked, vehicles moved on complex road plans, planes taxied down the runway and took off and landed, and every 15 minutes day turned to night and over 300,000 little lights came on.  There were many exclamations of "Look at that" and "Have you seen this?"


Berlin

Our first day in Berlin was spent very productively visiting the Berlin Zoo.  Wow   ...   what fun.  We saw elephants, rhinos, hippos, lions, tigers, panthers, jaguars, brown bears, black bears, polar bears, gorillas, chimpanzees, orang-utans, wolves, giraffes, zebras, gazelles, antelopes, penguins, seals and so the list goes on.




The zoo has the largest number of species in the world, however we realised as we were leaving that we had not seen any Australian animals except for a few birds.  We all felt invigorated by our day with the animals - Ellie kept saying, "I can't believe that they are actually REAL."




Although the city of Berlin is a relatively young city it has an incredibly interesting history.  A four hour walking tour (which stretched to six hours) was wonderful as we trekked around the city centre learning about its history from the mid 1700's until 1989 when the Berlin Wall fell.  We visited many sites including the Reichstag (parliament building), Brandenburg Gate, Holocaust Mahnmal (a Jewish memorial), Hitler's bunker where he spent his last hours, and numerous city squares including one at the Humboldt University which was the site of the "book burning" by the Nazis.  The Brandenburg Gate was impressive and the Jewish Mahnmal was very effective with its 2,711 grey concrete columns of differing height.




We met up with Claire (Vid's sister) and Dave who were planning to spend a couple of nights with us in our spalatial home on wheels but declined as Claire was feeling a little unwell.  Fortunately though we still spent a great day exploring with them.




The Mauermuseum had a fascinating exhibition on the history of the Berlin Wall including many stories from those that had escaped and the escape helpers.  It was established in 1962 right beside Checkpoint Charlie in West Berlin and was a known meeting site of escape helpers.  Between the wall's erection in 1961 and its fall in 1989, more than 5000 people escaped across, over and under the wall.




Over the course of time the aids and methods they used to overcome the increasingly perfected GDR (East Berlin) border security system became more and more inventive - the museum's collection includes many of the original items.  It didn't feel quite real that all these stories happened so recently in history.

After lunch we walked through the enormous wooded parklands of the Tiergarten to the Siegessaule - a massive column with an 8.3 m, 35 ton, gilded Goddess of Victory standing on top.  The Siegessaule was built around 1870 to commemorate the Prussian (of which Berlin was the capital) victory in the Prusso-Danish war of 1864.  We climbed the hundreds of spiraling steps to the observatory platform at the top, which rewarded us with excellent views of Berlin.





Spreewald

The Spreewald (Spree Forest) lies just south of Berlin on the way to Dresden.  It is a picturesque area of wooded forests and narrow canals feeding from the meandering Spree River.  Our highlight was a canoe paddle around the many canals near Lubbenau.




We paddled along at a reasonably leisurely rate until the splashing of raindrops rapidly increased our pace   ...   alas, too little, too late.  We tried to take cover from the brief torrential downpour but could only sit in the middle of the narrow canal and laugh.


Dresden

Shortly before the end of World War II, the Allied forces bombed and consequently incinerated much of the old baroque city centre of Dresden.  Fortunately many of the buildings have been rebuilt including the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) where 8,500 of the original blackened stones were categorised and have been reused in the rebuilding.  Its beautiful baroque style inside was highlighted by the enormous majestic 12,000 tonne dome.




We walked along The Procession of the Princes, a 100 metre long mural decorating a wall depicting rulers of Germany since 1127.  Over 90 people are portrayed through the use of 25,000 ceramic tiles.  It was a fabulous masterpiece and little did we know that it was a pre-cursor to what we would see at the Green Vault Museum.




The Green Vault Museum was absolutely extraordinary with its incredible collection of treasures.  There were more than 1,000 priceless and beautiful objects.  Gold, silver, jemstones, ivory, ebony, stones, wood, rock crystals, glass, bronze and other beautiful materials have been used to create some amazing artpieces.  The highlights were seeing the worlds only green diamond (caused by natural radioactivity), an enormous sailing frigate carved from ivory, and a tiny cherry stone that was carved with 185 faces.  This treasure chamber was absolutely overwhelming.  Unfortunately we have no photos as cameras were not allowed, so we are hoping the memories will remain vivid.

On our last full day we had a quick stop at Wurzburg to soak in, for one last time, a beautiful old city surrounded by castles and acres of vineyards.




It is now time to fly home from Frankfurt.  We have had the most amazing adventure and cannot believe how many great sights we have seen.  We are definitely feeling richer from the experience although after three months abroad, we are looking forward to coming home and seeing everyone.  There is no place like Australia.

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Friday 5 August 2011

BELGIUM AND THE NETHERLANDS

BELGIUM

Calais - Oostende

After learning about Operation Dynamo at Dover Castle, we left England on our return ferry ride to France and drove along the Belgium coast between Calais and Oostende, stopping to see the beaches of Dunkirk and sections of the Atlantic Wall.  Built by Hitler during World War II, the concrete machine gun bunkers were a stark reminder of the ruthfulness of the war.




This impressive defensive structure stretched along the coast from the north of Norway to the top of Spain, with 14,000 of these heavy concrete bunkers built along the wall.


Bruges - Brussells

Bruges, the "Venice of the North", was the quintessential medieval style Belgian town.  The historic Markt was alive with the hustle and bustle of daily life and the horse and carriage rides were too tempting.  The clip clopping on cobblestone streets past chocolate, sweets and lace shops was perfect. 




Nearby Ghent was not quite as enchanting as Bruges.  We wandered through the old city streets admiring the many towers and spires puncturing the skyline.  It was amazing to think that this city was once the second largest city in Europe before politics and The Plague.




Brussells, with its population of one million, had the feel of Brisbane - warm and friendly.  The Grand Place (central square) was the most magnificent city centre we felt we had visited on our travels across Europe.




The square's splendor is due largely to the Gothic styles and the antique frameworks of the guildhalls adorned with gilded statues and symbols.  We had an easy stroll past the famous Manneken Pis statue, the Palais Royal and through Park de Bruxelles.





Waterloo - Luxembourg - The Netherlands

The Lion Mound at Waterloo was our next chapter of European history.  We had an interesting couple of hours learning about Napolean and his defeat at Waterloo to the Duke of Wellington (British) and the Prussians.  The walk up the steep 226 stairs to the top of the mound, underneath the 28 tonne lion, offered fantastic views of the battlefield and the surrounding countryside.




A family vote was taken the next morning and we all decided to head into the hills towards Luxembourg rather than venture back into another city.  It was a big day of driving through four countries:  Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and The Netherlands - a pleasant country drive through farmlands of crops and livestock dispersed with wooded hillsides.





THE NETHERLANDS

Kinderdijk - Utrecht

Water, water, water - our initiation into The Netherlands was fat cattle speckled across lush green fields of grass surrounded by narrow canals with no fences, just gates, between the never ending waterways.  Needless to say, agriculture here is very different to Australia's parched landscape.  Two thirds of The Netherlands is below sea level, so an enormous amount of infrastructure is concentrated on draining the country. 




Kinderdijk is built in a polder (a low lying tract of land enclosed by dikes) that is below the level of the adjoining river.  To drain this polder, a system of 19 windmills was built.  Although only two are still in working order, these "old man" windmills have stood defiantly since the mid 1700's, saving this town from flooding.

The De Haar Castle at Utrecht was another magnificent medieval residence, built in the late 1300's.  We walked the castle grounds with its colourful ornamental and patterned gardens and majestic oaks and willows lining the walkways.




A wander around the surrounds (and another simple hedge maze) managed to entertain the family for a couple of hours.


Amsterdam - Zaanse Schans - Volendam

We are hoping that there was not much to see in Amsterdam as the family again took another vote to bypass the city life in favour of a more scenic day to celebrate Ellie's fourth birthday.  If you ever want to teach young children how to count backwards, start about ten sleeps before their birthday.




We had a great day visiting Zaanse Schans, which has a collection of well preserved historic Dutch windmills and houses.  The paint dye windmill was fascinating and the clog workshop had us intrigued.  After witnessing many locals in their traditional attire, we came to the conclusion that thick socks are an important factor for wearing wooden clogs.




A birthday cake was found in a little pastry shop and four matches quickly became candles.  After the simple birthday ceremonies and cake devastation, we drove on to the old fishing village of Volendam and across a 25 km sea dike that protects the city of Amsterdam from sea storms, before finding a campsite for the night.





Arnhem

The Netherlands Water Museum at Arnhem was a modern and interactive museum dedicated to all aspects of fresh water, not only in The Netherlands but over the entire planet.  The child-friendly exhibitions covered the various sources of water around the world and nature's reliance on it.  It gave an excellent overview of the history of the dike and polder system within The Netherlands and its current management system.

Back to Germany   ...   and the countdown to coming HOME has started.

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